星期三, 8月 13, 2014

基礎臉部清潔

這題目實在是很大。

星期四, 8月 07, 2014

幹嘛開始寫這個部落格

好,其實我光Blogger這邊的部落格大概就有三個,而這個其實是當年在國外讀書的時候寫筆記用的。
最近覺得台灣的美容、保養品、彩妝、香氛市場實在很「濁」,所以決定重新開始這個頁面。

自我介紹一下,我2007去英國,先在倫敦傳播學院拿了媒體傳播一年學程,再因為興趣到倫敦時尚學院化妝品科學榮譽學士,不含一年實習的三年課程。
在台灣念傳播,以攝影、設計為主,後來會走上化妝品科學這條路是因為以前高中念的是自然組,曾經幻想自己可以當全台灣第一個Perfumer(這應該我的高中同學都相當有印象),這個夢想後來有人實現了,是我的學姊Valerire

而為什麼當初沒有繼續走攝影或設計,除了妄想畢業論文可以做香水的專題之外,另外就是看到了一篇關於口紅效應的文章。加上自己體會到女生愛美的產業不會有夕陽的一天!就一直到了現在。畢竟在英國的第一年讀攝影結束之後根本想賺錢想瘋了,覺得攝影可以當興趣但不能當飯吃。

在去倫敦以前,我在國立台灣藝術大學的圖文傳播學系讀了兩年,後來在LCF的三年,特別可以說一下的是,敝系是整個大學唯一的Bachlor of Science(理學士),還是榮譽學位。

而班上從大一的24個人,大二銳減為12個人,一直到畢業是8個,就知道這個系的淘汰率,嗯,很高。而且我還是平均下來一年只有一個稀有的台灣人嘿嘿!

有一個同學不知道為何,可能畢業典禮什麼都不能拿又因為沒聽到大家典禮結束後要在West wing拍照而沒有出現的同學,幫她補一張。
 

當初在開始這個Blog,是想和在台灣念生物科技的朋友交流,也問過學校這些講義可以當資源使用,因此就這麼開了,當做共筆這樣。

最近突然又想更新這個頁面則是因為,在台灣工作了兩年多,總覺得台灣的美容保養產業還是有那麼一些些的不足,與歐洲似乎還有那麼一段落差。

部落格名稱這麼白話則是我想不到別的詞可以表達我的心態(?)了。
希望對你有幫助(鞠躬)

如果可以的話幫我按個讚我會很開心的XD(雖然我還沒有了解到blogger和fb到底如何同步哈哈)

星期五, 12月 05, 2008

Cosmetic Oils, Fats & Waxes (Lipophilic Emollients)

《分類》

通常以熔點分類為:


  • Oils

  • Fats

  • Butters

這三種有較低的熔點,且幾乎都是三酸甘油酯(triglyceride)


※三酸甘油酯(triglyceride)-含有甘油及脂肪酸(glycerol & fatty acid)



  • Waxes

高熔點,通常是單脂(monoesters)


《軟化劑》


藥學解釋:有軟化及緩和(softening and soothing)性質的產品



  • 水溶性軟化劑(Hydrophilic emollients)-水、保濕劑(humectants)

  • 脂溶性軟化劑(Lipophilic emollients)-油、脂肪、蠟、矽酮(silicones)

《軟化劑功能》



  • 使皮膚表面光滑,由於水合作用所造成的保水效應(occlusive effect)。

  • 滋潤(lubrication)皮膚表面。

  • 重新滋潤(re-fatting, super-fatting):利用清洗的方式達到重建皮膚及毛髮皮脂層的效果。

《油、脂肪、蠟所扮演的角色》



  • 保養品層面-護膚劑、調和產品(consistency factors)、溶劑(solubiliser)。

  • 清潔劑及潤滑劑(conditioning)層面-滋潤媒介(super-fatting agents)。

  • 化妝品層面-固定劑(binders)、分散劑(dispersing agents)、調和產品(consistency factors)。

《以來源分類》



  • 自然
    a)原油&蠟
    b)自然衍生物(Natural derivatives)

  • 合成
    a)石油衍生物(Petrochemical derivatives)
    b)矽酮(silicones)

非揮發性油類(Fixed oils/non-volatile)-用於化妝品。


有味道的精油(Essential oils/volatile, odourous)-用於香水。


《常見的動植物來源》



  • 牛油(Beef tallow)

  • 椰子油(Coconut palm)

  • 棕櫚油(Palm oil)

  • 花生(Peanut)

  • 油菜(Rape)

  • 大豆(Soya)

  • 向日葵(Sunflower)

《提煉方法》

  • 從植物材料中擠壓出油份,而後去除固體及其他污染物(Expression of oil from plant material, followed by removal of solid and other contaminants)。
    過濾(filtration)、離心法(centrifugation)、沉降法(sedimentation)。
    清洗/脫膠(washing/de-gumming)、處理酸性物質(acid treatment)、使其中和(neutralisation)、清洗(washing)、乾燥(drying)。
  • 溶劑萃取法(Solvent extraction)-通常使用己烷(hexane)
  • 新方法(novel method):超臨界流體萃取(supercritical fluid extraction)
    通常使用液態二氧化碳,能夠從自然的混合物中提煉特殊成份的脂類,取決於壓力和溫度(capable of extracting special fractions of lipids from natural mixtures, depending on the P and T)

《常見的結構》

星期日, 11月 30, 2008

Cosmetics through the ages

Karen Hsu



Japan has the largest cosmetics
industry in Asia today, which consists of a combination of Western
methods and Japanese methods as a result of the large culture shock
that occurred in Japan during the 18th to 20th centuries. After the
first Sino-Japanese War and the Russo-Japanese War, Japan became one
of “The Great Powers.” Along with the Second World War,
these wars prompted the cultures of Japan and of Western countries to
mix. The cosmetics industry was included as a part of this.
Afterwards, Japanese cosmetics became much more multicultural, which
it still is today. The history of the geisha can be traced back to
the 17th century with their golden age beginning in the 18th century
and lasting until 1947. The reason for its breakdown in 1947 was
that, prior to this year, the “Children Rights Law” and
“The Labor Standards Law” had been outlawed; these laws
had prohibited children from working before they were educated. This
essay will provide information about Japanese cosmetics and trace
back over its history to find a link between the geisha and how
today’s Japanese women use makeup.







Cosmetic history in Japan can be
looked at from as far back as the 7th century when people began
dyeing their teeth black as decoration. Up until the Edo period
(1603-1868), this habit became the sign of married women. From
ancient times to the middle of the Edo period, men would wear powder
on their faces when they attended the court. This became less
frequent toward the end of this period, but some warriors still used
some light foundation makeup when meeting with their masters. Also at
this time, wearing makeup started to become more common. Females wore
a lot of white powder on their faces and lipstick that only covered
the middle of the lip, which gave the appearance of a “cherry-like
small mouth.” This tradition was in fashion until the Taisho
period (1912-1926). From this time onward, married women would dye
their teeth black and pluck their eyebrows when they had a child. In
the Taisho period, the kimono came into focus, so wearing white
powder on the neck also became popular.







The Geisha culture in Japan started in
Kyoto, which is an ancient city in western Japan. This culture can be
traced back to the 17th century and began with girls who sold tea and
some desserts. They sang and danced to attract customers. Through
hundreds of years of adaptation, they became geisha. Geisha worked in
food service and mainly provided entertainment for customers. Geisha
would have been educated in traditional dancing, music, and some
particular type of drama in their childhood. They were generally
considered artists in Japan. In terms of cosmetics, geisha needed to
wear heavy kimonos and a lot of makeup. They used a huge amount of
hair wax to set their hair and wore thick white foundation and bright
red lipstick. Japanese think bright skin is beautiful, so the
geisha’s face had to be all white to show off their beauty and
the presence of nobility. Knowing this, it’s much easier to
understand why today’s Japanese women are so crazy about skin
whitening and think that the most important part of makeup is
foundation. It’s almost impossible to find a woman in Japan
today who isn’t wearing foundation makeup.







In the 18th and 19th centuries, the
materials used to make white powder were the same as in Western
countries and contained mercury and lead. Long-time use could cause
lead poisoning and the skin to change colour, which was discovered
during the Meiji period (1868-1912). Beginning in 1900, some
cosmetics companies provided harmless white powder as a new product,
but because the quality of products that used lead was better, even
though it was known the powder could be harmful, there were still a
lot of people using them until the beginning of the Showa period
(1926-1989). Looking at the largest Japanese cosmetic website
“@cosme,” it can be seen that the most popular foundation
product used today in Japan is emulsion foundation. When we look back
to the geisha, we see that the foundation they used was a thick
liquid similar to emulsion foundation, which is a combination of
lotion and white powder. This may be why the Japanese cosmetics
industry usually puts emphasis on clearing and lightening of skin and
also on the most important process of all, skin whitening.







What about lipstick? In ancient Japan,
lipstick used to be made from red flowers. As a result, lip reddening
cost a lot of money, so the process was usually only popular in
peeress’ circles. The shape that was drawn on with lipstick
also changed a lot from the Edo period until now. Before 1923 (when
the Kandou Earthquake occurred), women only wore lipstick in the
centre of their lips. The shape was a circle about 2 cm wide. After
the earthquake, because of the culture shock from Western countries,
lipstick started to cover the entire area of the lips. The things
used to make hair easier to comb also changed a lot. They used to use
hair wax and perfume to set their hair. Today, not only is
good-smelling wax still used, but there is also something like “hair
lotion” to keep hair in good condition.







In an article on JCNN
News Summaries - Japan Corporate News Network

from April
13, 2006
, Aki
Tsukioka
said “the market for skincare
products reached 973.8 billion yen (US $8.2 billion) in 2005 and is
expected to grow to 990.6 billion yen (US $8.4 billion) in 2006. The
market for fragrance products was 37.4 billion yen (US $317 million)
in 2005 but is likely to shrink to 36.0 billion yen (US $305 million)
in 2006.” Japan also has the largest cosmetics industry in any
Asian country. Someone once said, “You won’t see any girl
on the street without makeup in Japan.” In Japan, wearing
makeup has been seen as a way of showing respect to others from the
geisha to today’s women. Females in Japan are much more
beauty-conscious than before. Nowadays, there are numerous websites
that are updated everyday with cosmetics information. Even males have
begun paying more attention to makeup in recent years. There is
always a market for different types of cosmetics such as face
whiteners and hair wax. During the Japanese nationalization, they
sought perfection in methods used to perfect their imperfections, so
Japan still has many different types of makeup that other countries
don’t have and don’t need. This is also part of the
reason Japanese culture attracts so many foreigners these days.

星期一, 10月 20, 2008

Shades of change


Shades of change


Karen Hsu


As fashion and beauty
become more close then before, both attitudes of consumer and
manufaturer are changing.


The evolution of the
backstage beauty product has let the way for a new generation of
colour cosmetics which aim to recreate the finishes for the consumer
skin care benefits as well as the professional finishes be seen on
the catwalk.


The colour cosmetics
sector saw growth in both energing and mature markets in 2006, with
particularly high gains in Spain, up to 7.5% to $796.9m, Asia
Pacific, up 5.6% to 9,221.0 and the UK, which reached $1,961.5m, an
increace of 5.8%. The only one decreasing country was Germany, which
was-1.3% and $1412.5m in 2006.


Diana Dodson, senior
C&T industry analyst says that they are seeing cosmetics
manufacturers discovering new ways to compete, applying trends for
other categories to colour cosmetics. “While the fast growing
emerging markets are the key source of dynamism within the global
category, this approach is helping to encourage growth, albeit at a
modest rate, in the more developed markets.”


One of the most
innovative ways manufacturers are finding differentiate their
products is through the use of skin care technology. But now the
sector has started to offer much more than just colour and coverage
in its products.


Dodson also mentioned
that “And with estimated buying power of the baby boomer
generation, US$2.1 trillion in the US alone is a particular draw for
these products with a range of added benefits.”


The make-up artist
Daniel Sandler said that the benefitof skin care ingredients is a
good growing trend in cosmetic market.


The manufacturers who
often trade on their skin care expertise to create those products put
the emphasis on the development of anti-ageing foundations.


The power of the big
sesigner beauty brands such as Space.NK and Sephora has faced stiff
competition from the swathe of niche make-up brands entering the
market, which have been favoured by retailers in recent years.


The colour cosmetics
collection is split into two sections – Artful Shadow and
Artful Light. Artful Shadow contain high technology pigments like
pure titanium mica and intense ultramarine, which give a blue tint to
products, helping to increace luminosity and skin uniformity.


It’s not
surprising that colour cosmetics has come under the eco spotlight as
consumer interest in organic and environmentally sustainable beauty
continues to grow.


Over the last year,
mineral make-up also took a much more prominent role in the colour
cosmetics sector.


During these days the
sophisticated formulas that sometimes blur the boundaries between
skin care and colour cosmetics, Manufacturers need to be pay much
more attentions to stay in the game.



星期五, 10月 17, 2008

Raw Materials-20081017

Raw Materials for Cosmetics & Toiletries
-Water & water soluble materials
-Emollients(潤膚劑)
-Surfactants(界面活性劑)
-Rheological modifiers & film formers(流變改性劑、成膜劑?)
-Cosmetic actives
-Colours & perfumes
-Protectants (preservatives, antioxidants)(防腐劑、抗氧化劑)



It is very difficult to adopt a universal classification

-Many raw materials cross boundaries between categories.

-Many raw materials are multi-functional.